Travel stories

Casco Viejo, the old town of Panama City (part 1)

Casco Viejo is a fascinating historic district, full of history, culture and sights.

On my first visit it almost felt as if I had stumbled out of a time machine and landed in the 17th century.

The district was founded in 1673, after the original city, Panama Viejo, had been destroyed by pirates.

The narrow, winding lanes with their grand palaces and colonial mansions cast a spell on me. When I closed my eyes for a moment, I could imagine what happened here 300 years ago.

The churches

Besides the many grand buildings in the old town, there are some impressive churches. My first stop was the Cathedral of Panama.

Cathedral of Panama in Casco Viejo

Here too you can see colonial architecture and art. The large altar is covered in gold leaf and is considered one of the most magnificent in Latin America.

Altar of the Cathedral of Panama

In the Church of San Felipe Neri, a small treasure is hidden in a back room. A breathtaking nativity scene, a detailed depiction of the Christmas story, is displayed behind a protective glass wall. Every figure, every building and every detail was made with great care and love.

Nativity scene in the Church of San Felipe Neri
Detail of the San Felipe Neri nativity scene

Restaurants and cafés

Casco Viejo has plenty of restaurants, bars and cafés. Whether you want Panamanian specialities or international food in a charming setting, you will find it here.

One restaurant won me over so much that I went back for a second meal.

A 17th-century Jesuit monastery was recently turned into a stylish hotel. Its tastefully restored lounges now house one of its five in-house restaurants. At El Santuario, a small but excellent menu invites you for breakfast or lunch.

El Santuario restaurant in Casco Viejo
Courtyard of the former Jesuit monastery

I love sitting at a bar and watching the bartenders work. At Exilio Bar I was well rewarded. The room where the bar is today was most likely home to the Jesuits more than 250 years ago, where they lived and taught before a secret exile order from King Charles III of Spain banished them.

Fine wines, good cocktails and a choice of beers are served.

Exilio Bar, Casco Viejo

There are also less exclusive but cosy cafés and restaurants in the old town. Finca del Mar is popular with tourists and locals alike. Its picturesque terrace between old stone walls and traditional decor has a warm atmosphere that makes you want to stay a while.

Terrace of Finca del Mar

This is also where, as far as I remember, I had my first Cuba Libre ;-)

Continue with part 2: craft market and nightlife.

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We had a wonderful day • We would book this trip again in a heartbeat • I can highly recommend taking a tour • Top notch • Unforgettable! The kids loved it, too • The relaxing started the moment we booked •